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E46 Sway bars

Your E46

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In the US, 1999 E46s were sedans only, and 2006 E46s were coupes and convertibles only. M3s aren't covered yet.

Less body roll
Medium$650–$8502–3 hrs
All E46 mods

Why do it

Thicker, adjustable front and rear bars cut body roll and let you tune how the car turns in, without making the ride harsh.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • The H&R kit we list (27mm front, 21mm rear) fits rear-wheel-drive models only, not xi.
  • The video shows an ECS kit with the same bar sizes, so the steps are the same.
  • Support the car on four jack stands so you can do the front and rear in one session.

Video guide

Sway bar install on an E46 330i
by Static Garage on YouTube

Different brand (ECS), same 27mm front and 21mm rear sizes as the H&R kit we list. They joke about using only a jack. Always use jack stands. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Lift and remove the wheels

    • Raise the car and support it on jack stands at all four corners. Never work under a car held up only by a jack.
    • Remove the front wheels.
    Watch this step (1:22–1:52)

  2. Front: unbolt the end links

    • Remove the nut holding each end link to the sway bar (16mm). Hold the back of the link's stud with a wrench if it spins.
    Watch this step (4:27–5:00)

  3. Front: remove the old bar

    • Remove the nuts on the two bushing brackets holding the bar to the car.
    • Have a helper hold the other end so the bar doesn't fall, then work it out.
    Watch this step (5:00–5:32)

  4. Front: fit the new bar

    • Grease the inside of the new bushings with the grease in the kit and fit them on the bar.
    • Put the bar in place, refit the brackets and the end links, and tighten everything.
    Watch this step (5:32–6:37)

  5. Rear: remove the old bar

    • Remove the rear wheels. Unbolt the end links and the two bushing brackets.
    • If an end link is stuck on the bar, spray penetrating oil into the gap while pulling it back and forth until it slides off.

    Tip: Wear safety glasses for the rear. Rust and dirt fall straight into your eyes.

    Watch this step (7:09–9:18)

  6. Rear: fit the new bar

    • Grease the new bushings, guide the bar over the exhaust and into place, and line up both brackets before starting any bolts.
    • Refit the end links, then tighten everything.
    Watch this step (9:18–10:10)

  7. Torque and test drive

    • Torque the bracket and end link nuts to H&R's or your service manual's spec. Refit the wheels and torque them too.
    • Drive slowly over a few bumps and listen for clunks before driving hard.
    Watch this step (9:50–11:13)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.