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E46 Brake pads + fluid

Your E46

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In the US, 1999 E46s were sedans only, and 2006 E46s were coupes and convertibles only. M3s aren't covered yet.

Firmer pedal
Medium$180–$3002–3 hrs
All E46 mods

Why do it

Performance street pads and fresh high-temperature fluid give a firmer pedal and less fade during hard driving.

Tools you'll need

Parts to buy

Always double-check fitment for your exact year, trim and transmission before buying. Prices change. ModBuddy doesn't earn money from these links.

Before you start

  • Get the right pads. 323, 325 and 328 models use a different front pad than 330s, which have bigger brakes. Compare the new pads to the old ones before you install them.
  • Check your rotors. If they're grooved, have a lip on the edge or are below the minimum thickness stamped on them, replace them too.
  • E46s have a pad wear sensor on the front left and rear right. If your old pads wore down to the sensor (or the brake warning light is on), fit new sensors.
  • The rear parking brake on the E46 is a small drum inside the rear rotor, so the rear caliper pistons push straight back like the fronts.

Video guide

BMW E46 front and rear brakes DIY
by 50sKid on YouTube

Covers front and rear, including rotors. He says the cheap pads he used later got noisy, so buy good pads like the ones we list. The small screw he leaves loose is the rotor's locating screw. The caliper bolts must always be tightened to spec. Each ▶ button below jumps to that step in the video.

Watch the whole video

Steps

  1. Get your tools, lift and remove the wheels

    • Loosen the wheel bolts, raise the car onto jack stands and remove the wheels. Do one axle at a time.
    Watch this step (0:08–1:40)

  2. Unplug the wear sensor

    • On the front left and rear right, unplug the wear sensor and pull it out of the pad. The old connector can be brittle, so go gently.
    Watch this step (1:40–1:53) Swapping the wear sensor (5:06–6:13)

  3. Remove the caliper

    • Pop off the plastic caps and remove the two guide bolts with a 7mm hex socket. Remove the spring clip on the outside of the caliper.
    • Slide the caliper off and hang it with an S-hook or bungee. Never let it hang by the brake hose.
    Watch this step (2:47–4:03)

  4. Push the piston back

    • Use a bar clamp or C-clamp against the old pad to push the piston back slowly.
    • Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. Pushing pistons back raises the level. If someone topped it up earlier, remove some fluid so it doesn't overflow.
    Watch this step (1:53–2:47)

  5. Fit the new pads

    • Clean the caliper bracket with brake cleaner and a wire brush. Put a thin film of brake lube where the pads touch the bracket and caliper (never on the pad surface or rotor), and silicone paste on the guide bolts.
    • Fit the new pads, slide the caliper on, refit the guide bolts, caps and spring clip, and torque the bolts to spec. Fit the new wear sensor facing the pad, not the piston. Repeat on the other side.
    Watch this step (8:26–14:19) The rear brakes (same steps) (14:24–28:02)

  6. Pump the pedal

    • Before moving the car, pump the brake pedal until it's firm. The first few presses will go nearly to the floor.
    Watch this step (14:42–15:40)

  7. Bleed with fresh fluid

    • Bleed each corner until clean fluid with no bubbles comes out, following your service manual's order. The usual order is right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
    • Keep the reservoir topped up the whole time. If it runs dry, you'll pull air into the system.

    Tip: The bleeding clip uses a pressure bleeder. The two-person method (one pumps the pedal, one opens and closes the bleeder) works too, in the same order.

    Bleeding on an E46 (Classic BMWZ, with a pressure bleeder) (2:25–5:56)

  8. Bed in the pads

    • On a quiet road, do about five medium stops from about 35 mph, then about three firmer stops from about 45 mph, without coming to a full stop or holding the brakes at the end.
    • Park and let them cool for a few minutes. Follow the pad maker's bedding instructions if they differ.
    Watch this step (28:13–32:22)

How to know it worked

Did this guide work for you?

Safety first

  • Park on flat, solid ground, set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
  • Use jack stands rated for your car. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before touching them.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging sensors or electrical parts.
  • Wear safety glasses, and gloves around sharp heat shields and hot fluids.
  • Tighten bolts to the torque spec in your factory service manual.
  • If a step doesn't match your car or you're unsure, stop and ask a shop.

These are overview steps written to help you plan the job. Always follow the instructions that come with your part and the procedures and torque specs in your factory service manual. Horsepower is an estimate; results vary.